The right lip liner shade: how to choose a colour, overline styles and lip care

The right lip liner shade is usually as close as possible to your natural lip colour or to the lipstick you wear. When the colour blends in, the line disappears but the shape of your lips looks more defined and fuller. A liner that is too dark makes the line visible and can make lips look smaller.

This article covers how to choose a lip liner colour, the most common styles, how to care for your lips so the liner looks neat according to dermatologists, and Kira's real picks from one selfie.

How to choose a lip liner colour

As a general style guide, three rules are easy to follow:

• For a natural look, choose a liner that matches your natural lip colour, such as nude rosy or peachy nude.
• With lipstick, pick a liner the same shade or one step deeper than the lipstick so the edge blends.
• Avoid shades much darker than your lips and lipstick, because the line easily reads as an outline.

Undertone matters too. Peachy nudes usually suit warm undertones, while rosy tones suit cool undertones. Not sure about yours? Read how to find your skin undertone.

Lip liner styles: overline, cupid's bow and blurred lips

• Subtle overline: the liner sits just outside the natural lip line for a fuller look. Keep it thin, not far outside the line.
• Cupid's bow lift: the centre of the upper lip is defined so its shape stands out.
• Blurred lips: the liner is blended inward until the edge is soft, for a natural finish.

This is a style guide, not a strict rule. Every lip shape is different, so the easiest way is to see the result on a photo of your own lips.

Kira's real lip liner result

Here is Kira's real reply to a lip liner question from one selfie of an AI model:

For this model, Kira read balanced lips with a light natural colour. The picks:

• Subtle Overline in nude rosy, because it makes lips look fuller.
• Cupid's Bow Lift in soft pink, because it defines the lip shape.
• Blurred Lips in peachy nude, because it gives a soft effect.
• Very dark shades are avoided, because they can make lips look smaller.

The preview above was created by Kira on the model's own photo, so you can see the difference before buying a lip liner.

Care for your lips first so the liner looks neat

Liner goes on more neatly on soft lips. According to the American Academy of Dermatology, use lip balm, lipstick and other lip products that do not irritate. Burning, stinging or tingling is not a sign that a product is working, it means your lips are irritated. While lips are dry and chapped, AAD dermatologists suggest avoiding products with camphor, eucalyptus, mint or citrus flavouring, fragrance, lanolin and menthol.

Helpful ingredients include petrolatum, shea butter, ceramides, dimethicone and castor seed oil. Before going outdoors, apply a lip balm with SPF 30 or higher and reapply every 2 hours while outside. Also stop licking your lips, because as saliva evaporates, lips become drier. The full guide is in how to fix dry lips.

On cosmetic safety, the FDA advises not using cosmetics near your eyes unless they are meant for your eyes, for example not using lip liner on your eyes. The FDA also recommends washing your hands before using a product and not sharing makeup.

Pair it with the right lipstick

Lip liner blends best when your lipstick suits your skin tone too. See lipstick shades for tan skin and matte, satin or glossy lipstick.

Ask Kira for your lip liner

Send a front-facing selfie in natural light to Kira on WhatsApp and ask which lip liner suits you. Kira replies in 10 to 15 seconds with three styles and shades, the reasons, shades to avoid, and a preview on your own photo. See the lip liner example.